Your plan actually sounds very solid, especially since the table is solid teak and not veneer — that gives you much more flexibility with sanding and stain correction. I’d continue sanding the dark water mark first before reaching for bleach, since you’ve already seen improvement. Oxalic acid can help if needed, but spot-testing first is definitely the right move.

For the finish, I would personally avoid oil-based polyurethane because teak already has warm undertones, and oil-based products tend to amber over time, which could bring back some of that orange/yellow cast you’re trying to escape.

Instead, look for a high-quality *water-based matte polyurethane, polycrylic, or commercial waterborne floor finish*. Those stay much clearer and will better preserve the soft limewashed/whitewashed look while still giving you real protection against future water rings, spills, and everyday dining-table use.

Wax alone usually isn’t enough protection for a dining table long-term, especially against glasses, wine, or repeated wiping.

One very important tip: always test your full finish schedule on the underside of the tabletop first. Teak can react differently than other woods because of its natural oils, and even “clear” finishes can slightly deepen the tone.

And honestly, I think your father would probably love seeing the table being used and appreciated again instead of forgotten away somewhere. Sounds like a beautiful project.

Hi Lillian, if you use blue stain, i believe it will be damaged by natural teak oil content that come from the wood itself. i strongly suggest to use oil for wood finish, regula oiling when necessary, maybe once a season